Jasmine Birtles
Your money-making expert. Financial journalist, TV and radio personality.

You’ve narrowed your choice to two funds. Both look decent, both have impressive-sounding names, and now you’re stuck. Sound familiar? Comparing funds can feel like homework designed by someone who loves jargon, but it doesn’t have to be. In this guide you’ll learn a simple five-step method to compare two investment funds side by side, spot the differences that actually matter, and make a confident choice.
A fund is a basket of investments, such as shares or bonds, pooled together with other investors’ money and run by a professional or by a computer that copies an index. If any terms below are new, our A-Z of investing terms will help.
Every fund has a fact sheet and a Key Information Document (KID). The Financial Conduct Authority (FCA) describes the KID as a short, standardised document, up to three sides of A4, designed to help you understand and compare a product’s key features, risks, rewards and costs. Because it follows a fixed layout, it is ideal for putting two funds side by side.
You can usually find both on the fund’s page on your investment platform or the fund provider’s website. Open both for each fund and keep a notepad or spreadsheet handy.
This is the step most beginners skip, and it matters most. There is no point comparing a fund of UK shares with a fund of global bonds, because they are built to do different things. Before comparing numbers, check that both funds share the same basics:
If you are comparing two global share funds, great. If one is global and one is UK-only, you are comparing apples with pears. For more on picking between index trackers, see our guide on how to choose an index fund.
Costs are the most reliable difference between two funds, because unlike returns they are known in advance. The key figure is the ongoing charges figure (OCF), the yearly fee taken from the fund, shown as a percentage. MoneyHelper notes that fees and charges can reduce your earnings, especially over longer periods.
Look at three things for each fund:
Here’s why this matters. Say £10,000 grows at 6% a year before costs for 20 years. This is a simplified illustration, not a forecast. With a 0.10% charge, you’d end up with about £31,500. With a 0.75% charge, about £27,800. Same investments, roughly £3,700 gone in fees. Small percentages add up.
Next, see what each fund actually owns. Open the fact sheet and check the top 10 holdings, the split by country and the split by industry. You are looking for:
Our guide to ETFs for first-time investors shows how this looks for some popular funds.
Performance is the bit everyone wants to look at first, but it is the easiest to misread. Past performance is no guarantee of the future, so use it as a clue, not a promise. To compare fairly:
Many platforms have a chart-and-compare tool that lets you plot funds on one graph, which makes this step quick.
Finally, make sure the fund works for you in real life:
Use a table like this to fill in each fund’s details and tick the winner on each row.
| What to compare | Fund A | Fund B |
|---|---|---|
| Same job? (asset type, region, benchmark) | ||
| Ongoing charge and transaction costs | ||
| Top 10 holdings and spread | ||
| 1, 3 and 5 year performance vs benchmark | ||
| Risk score (1 to 7) | ||
| Available in my ISA or pension? | ||
| Acc or inc version |
If one fund wins on costs and spread, and the rest is roughly level, that is often your answer. If it is still close, either choice is likely to be fine. Beginners often put off investing while searching for the perfect fund, but time in the market usually matters more than the perfect pick.
Our guide to the best investments for beginners shows where to start, and how to invest in index funds walks you through buying one.
How many funds do I need? Many beginners start with one broad, low-cost fund. You can add more later.
Is the cheapest fund always the best? Not always. A slightly more expensive fund may suit your goals better, but you should have a clear reason for paying more.
Can I rely on star ratings? Treat them as a starting point only. They look backwards, so do your own comparison using the five steps.
Disclaimer: This article is for informational and educational purposes only and is not regulated financial advice. Investing involves risk, investments can go down as well as up, and you could get back less than you put in. Past performance is not a reliable guide to future returns. The cost example is illustrative only. Do your own research or speak to a regulated financial adviser.
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